How to Choose Your First Kite: Size, Type and Brand

"Which kite should I buy?" is a question I hear from students more often than "when will there be wind?". And it's the right question — the wrong kite can put you off riding entirely, while the right one makes your first months on the water genuinely enjoyable. Let's work through it in order, without the marketing.

First: don't buy a kite before you can ride a board

I know it sounds like an instructor's excuse, but it's true. Until you've done a basic course and felt how the canopy pulls you through the water, any choice is guesswork. On our kitesurfing course students ride school kites in several sizes — 9, 10, 12, 14 m — and by the end of the course they have a feel for which size and which brand suits them, based on the water rather than an advert.

Size: the main variables are wind and weight

Canopy size isn't chosen by eye but by a formula: rider weight + wind strength + riding style. The lighter the rider and the weaker the wind, the bigger the kite. The heavier the rider and the stronger the wind, the smaller.

• 50–65 kg — a 7–12 m range usually covers it (12–14 m for light wind)
• 65–80 kg — a 9–14 m range, up to 17 m for very light days
• 80 kg and up — from 10 m, and 14–17 m for light wind

For a beginner I'd advise against chasing one "universal" kite. If the budget allows, take two sizes 3–4 metres apart — for example 9 and 12 m. That covers most wind conditions you'll meet at your local spots. There's a detailed breakdown in our guide to kite size by weight and wind.

The classic beginner mistake with size

The most common error is taking a kite "with a safety margin" — smaller than needed, out of fear of being dragged. In reality an undersized kite makes you pull harder on the harness, you tire, lose balance and crash more often. Better to take the correct size and learn to work with your body than to fight a lack of power.

Canopy type: bow, delta, hybrid

Every modern beginner kite is a variation on three shapes. The difference isn't in the name but in how they behave in the air.

Bow kites — wide depower, easy relaunch from the water, stable at the edge of the window. An excellent first kite that gives you a safety margin.

Delta — a compromise between a bow and a classic C-kite. They respond faster and give more drive, but ask a little more of your technique.

Hybrid (delta-bow) — now the industry standard for school and all-round ranges at almost every brand. These are the kites we use at the school: they forgive mistakes and relaunch easily even after landing nose-down in the water.

C-kites (the classic shape) aren't for beginners — they deliver sharper, more direct pull with little depower and are built for unhooked freestyle.

Brand: what actually matters

At beginner level the difference between the major brands is far smaller than the marketing suggests. What matters more is:

• Availability of spare parts and service where you ride — a torn bladder is normal wear, and you want to fix it locally rather than post the kite abroad.
• The safety system on the bar — the quick release should be simple and reachable with one hand under stress.
• Whether you can try it — riding a demo for an hour tells you more than a week of reading forum threads.

In our shop we work with Ozone, Flysurfer, F-One, CrazyFly and other brands — you can see the full list on the brands page, and we'll help you match a model to your level.

New or second-hand?

A used kite is a reasonable way to save money, but check it properly: the canopy for tears and UV damage (the fabric goes brittle and dull), the leading edge and struts for leaks, the bridles for wear, and the bar for line and quick-release condition. If you can't assess it yourself, bring someone who rides — or buy from a school where the gear has a known history.

What else you need besides the kite

The kite alone won't get you on the water. A complete setup is kite + bar + board + harness, plus an impact vest and helmet for learning. Buying it piece by piece often costs more than a ready-made package — see the complete packages in the shop.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a first kitesurfing setup cost?

It depends heavily on whether you buy new or used and how many sizes you take. A complete package (kite, bar, board, harness) is the most economical route — we'll put one together for your weight and budget. Message us and we'll quote it.

Should I buy one kite or two?

Start with one of the right size for your weight and typical local wind. Add the second size once you understand which days you're missing out on — usually a lighter or stronger wind kite.

Is a second-hand kite a bad idea for a beginner?

Not at all, if it's been checked. UV-damaged canopy fabric and leaking bladders are the main risks. Buying from a school or a rider you know is safer than a random listing.

Which kite type is best for learning?

A hybrid delta-bow — the standard for school ranges. Wide depower, easy water relaunch and forgiving behaviour when you make a mistake.

Can I learn on my own gear straight away?

You can, but on a course everything is included, so you get to try several sizes before committing money. Most students find that changes what they end up buying.

Not sure what to take? Tell us your weight, level and where you'll ride — K1 instructors will suggest a setup free of charge. Get in touch or browse kites in the shop.